A buddy of mine had to use a Dremel and cut a ratchet out of an engine compartment from a Rav4 from it getting jammed. They are so close to the wheel well/frame that you can actually get your ratchet stuck up against the frame and you will be in a real world of crap if that happens. Be careful when using a standard size ratchet on these 3 bolts. From the wheel well access, remove the lower nut from the motor mount insulator bracket and then remove the 3 bolts attaching the lower bracket from the motor. You will need to put a floor jack under the oil pan and GENTLY hold the engine in place. Do NOT use a jaw puller on this to avoid major headaches. The correct puller is a harmonic balancer or crank pulley puller which allows you to thread it to the crank pulley and use a center shaft to "press" the pulley off of the crank. You will risk bending and ruining the pulley if you don't. You MUST use a correct puller on this step. I then used a 1/2" air impact gun with 120psi and 300 ft lbs of torque for approximately 5 minutes before the bolt came loose. This step, for me, required a propane torch to heat the crank bolt, which loosened the threads from the overflowing Locktite that was visible.
You will need specialty tools that are not always found in the average home garage.
I would recommend NOT attempting replacement of the timing belt or water pump, especially, on this vehicle as a DIY project unless you have a solid understanding of automotive function and repair. the side of the engine compartment and wheel well. The challenge was primarily due to the close proximity of the front of the engine vs. First, let me tell you that I have worked on many cars for many years and consider myself a very capable mechanic - however, this replacement was a true challenge. I just finished replacing the timing belt and water pump on a 1996 Rav4.
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